Southern Italy A Journey tag:travellerspoint.com,2009-02-09:/blog/?domain=volcano 2009-02-20T18:42:10Z Lent img/travel-blog-feed.png Pompei tag:travellerspoint.com,2009-02-20:/blog/?domain=volcano&thisblog_entryid=7&entryid=151543 2009-02-20T18:42:10Z 2009-02-20T18:38:55Z [map=178800 lat=40.7291666666667 lon=14.5625 zoom=648] There are more interesting things than summarizing a visit to Pompei, but despite the tourist buzzle it is still fascinating to walk through the ancient 2000+ years old streets on this 250 years old excavation site to see what the first documented natural disaster of human history in 79 AD did to 'freeze' a day in the life of a city for posterity. See my walk through the ruins in extremely high resolution and enjoy some amazing ...

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There are more interesting things than summarizing a visit to Pompei, but despite the tourist buzzle it is still fascinating to walk through the ancient 2000+ years old streets on this 250 years old excavation site to see what the first documented natural disaster of human history in 79 AD did to 'freeze' a day in the life of a city for posterity. See my walk through the ruins in extremely high resolution and enjoy some amazing bird-eye view archeology: http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=131762
The price of the ticket is 11€ (2009). The excavation site is big enough to easily get away from the crowds (e.g. school kids in groups), but be prepared to find most houses - including some of the more interesting sites - locked. My traveller's tip is to go up to the town fortification near the Herculaneum Gate (Porta Ercolanea) and the Necropolis, which is off the signposted track for the audio-guided visitors and enjoy a good view of the entire western part of the excavations as well as some sun-preheated benches to take a rest after all the walking....

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Sun dial series, part 2: this one is part of the Apollo temple in Pompei

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... and this picture you have probably seen in school ...

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From Sicily to Salerno across the Tyrrhenian Sea tag:travellerspoint.com,2009-02-19:/blog/?domain=volcano&thisblog_entryid=6&entryid=151398 2009-02-19T22:37:05Z 2009-02-19T22:37:05Z [map=178800 lat=39.5744680851064 lon=14.5744680851064 zoom=42.3] After late evening train ride back to Messina, I had a very late night check-in there for B&T ferries to Salerno, departure time 1.30 am! Despite the inconvenient travel time, B&T offers a brandnew and very clean ship, occupied mostly by truckers at this time of the year. Upon arrival in the morning one has an excellent view of the coast of Amalfi stretching westwards from the city of Salerno. Check-out procedures in Salerno are not made ...

See the itinerary of this trip, and details about each destination.

After late evening train ride back to Messina, I had a very late night check-in there for B&T ferries to Salerno, departure time 1.30 am! Despite the inconvenient travel time, B&T offers a brandnew and very clean ship, occupied mostly by truckers at this time of the year. Upon arrival in the morning one has an excellent view of the coast of Amalfi stretching westwards from the city of Salerno. Check-out procedures in Salerno are not made for pedestrians; elsewhere in Europe walking in the harbour area is strictly forbidden, but here there is no other way to exit the port and enter the city.
The coast of Amalfi is even more impressive on a bus ride (Salerno-Amalfi, ca. one hour). The ticket is only 1.90€ and it is worth the price, unless you have a sensitive stomach. On endless serpentines the bus driver honks its way through the narrow curves high over the sea and if you don't dare to look down to the sea, look up to the towering cliffs with suspending stalactites and the beautiful citrus orchards on very narrow terraces. Easy to understand that Amalfi easily defended its independence from Salerno and Naples for many centuries and in due to its inaccessibility from the landward side based its power and prosperity on sea trade. The Amalfian seafarers by the way invented the magnetic compass needle!
Watch the route from Amalfi to Salerno along Maiori, Minori and Vietri here: http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=131283 If you decide to watch my track recording in Google Earth, there is no need to exaggerate the profile elevation. Even without you get more than an idea of this spectacular 3D landscape.
Salerno has a lot of things to offer, not least a very recent and stylishly refurbished youth hostel in a 17th century building in the middle of town.

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Sun dial opposite the cathedral in Amalfi

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Siracusa tag:travellerspoint.com,2009-02-18:/blog/?domain=volcano&thisblog_entryid=5&entryid=151112 2009-02-19T21:22:12Z 2009-02-18T18:50:30Z [map=178800 lat=37.1716589861751 lon=15.0633640552996 zoom=156.24] Yesterday Etna's black lava, today the white limestones and marbles of Greek antiquity in Siracusa. The train journey from Catania takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes; the bus on the way back is going more slowly. From the Highway I had a beautiful view of snow-topped and majestic Mt. Etna in the evening sun. (Yesterday and the day before the top was in cloud cover for most of the time.) The touristical main items of Siracusa revolve ...

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Yesterday Etna's black lava, today the white limestones and marbles of Greek antiquity in Siracusa. The train journey from Catania takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes; the bus on the way back is going more slowly. From the Highway I had a beautiful view of snow-topped and majestic Mt. Etna in the evening sun. (Yesterday and the day before the top was in cloud cover for most of the time.)
The touristical main items of Siracusa revolve around the ancient Greek past and Santa Lucia and her ancient cult (a thing that Swedish speaking people know to appreciate). I just about managed to get into the Archeological Park containing the Greek Theatre as well as a Roman Amphitheatre. Beware: last entry in wintertime is 3pm and the ticket 8€. The early christian catacombes at San Giovanni were Chiuso when I arrived in the afternoon and the Archeological Museum Chiuso per Restauro.
For readers of my earlier blog: a bit of Greek antiquity is a good excuse to commemorate the upcoming first anniversary of the great and unforgettable BalticCycle Bike Ride from Greece to China. In case you haven't seen it: http://lent.travellerspoint.com/10/
In Catania I had the pleasure to meet Fernando from Spain who has been cycling through Spain, France and Italy for the past 8 or so months and he has toured from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego on bicycle in previous years.

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Siracusa - Parco Archeologico

Watch my walk through the archeological park: http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=131282

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Etna tag:travellerspoint.com,2009-02-17:/blog/?domain=volcano&thisblog_entryid=4&entryid=150865 2009-02-17T20:24:36Z 2009-02-17T20:18:00Z [map=178800 lat=37.6304231387252 lon=14.9876807712909 zoom=840.15] Bus at 8.15 am from the Railway Station in Catania, taking three passengers up to Rifugio Sapienza at 2000m on the southern slope of Mt. Etna. The snow hides many of the geological features at this time of the year, but the skiing area was reconstructed after the 2002/03 eruptions and in fact on top of the lava created then. Well visible from the slope are the Silvestro craters created in 2001. On the way back down to ...

See the itinerary of this trip, and details about each destination.

Bus at 8.15 am from the Railway Station in Catania, taking three passengers up to Rifugio Sapienza at 2000m on the southern slope of Mt. Etna. The snow hides many of the geological features at this time of the year, but the skiing area was reconstructed after the 2002/03 eruptions and in fact on top of the lava created then. Well visible from the slope are the Silvestro craters created in 2001.
On the way back down to Catania stopover in Nicolosi (700m), that hosts the Etna volcanolgy museum. Well worth visiting, but the opening hours do not really conform with the timetable of the only bus per day that comes down from Rifugio (gets to Nicolosi after 5 pm, museum closes at 5.30 pm).

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Virgin rock below your skis. Craters date from 2001.

For ski slope profile: http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=129853

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Circumetnea tag:travellerspoint.com,2009-02-16:/blog/?domain=volcano&thisblog_entryid=3&entryid=150582 2009-02-16T20:39:16Z 2009-02-16T20:30:48Z [map=178800 lat=37.7131099353322 lon=14.9676660787772 zoom=306.18] Walking past the main sights of ancient, baroque (destroyed and rebuilt in 1698, that's why) and Vincenzo Bellini Catania in the morning. Departing on the narrow gauge railway line in a rail bus from the Circumetnea station near Piazza Cavour. 6.75 € for the entire 110 km trip around the volcano from Catania to Giarre including a short stopover at Andrano and a rather long one in Randazzo later in the afternoon. Italians keep theit Siesta even ...

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Walking past the main sights of ancient, baroque (destroyed and rebuilt in 1698, that's why) and Vincenzo Bellini Catania in the morning. Departing on the narrow gauge railway line in a rail bus from the Circumetnea station near Piazza Cavour. 6.75 € for the entire 110 km trip around the volcano from Catania to Giarre including a short stopover at Andrano and a rather long one in Randazzo later in the afternoon. Italians keep theit Siesta even at chilly winter temperatures (light snow on the ground beyond 800m); so there wasn't much to do or to see especially in Randazzo.

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The train climbs up to 960m and on its journey passes vinyards, lavafields and ancient towns. There are no tourists around at this time of the year but this privately run railway line serves the population in some fairly remote villages on the foot of Etna.
At the final stop in Giarre down at the coast I spent considerable time waiting for the regular FS train back to Catania, as trains frequently late or services cancelled.

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On the Circumetnea track in Adrano

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Circumetnea terminal in Catania

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Crossing the Strait of Messina tag:travellerspoint.com,2009-02-16:/blog/?domain=volcano&thisblog_entryid=2&entryid=150565 2009-02-16T19:05:31Z 2009-02-16T19:04:18Z [map=178800 lat=38.4434490481523 lon=15.5431131019037 zoom=80.37] Flying in to Lamazia International Airport on the Ionian Sea Coast from London on Ryanair with plenty of British tourists on Saturday night. Comfortable walk from airport to the village of Sant' Eufemia centering around the railway station on the line connecting Naples and Reggio di Calabria. On Sunday train journey along the coast via Gioio Tauro to Villa San Giovanni, main transit harbour to Sicily. Arriving in Mess ...

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Flying in to Lamazia International Airport on the Ionian Sea Coast from London on Ryanair with plenty of British tourists on Saturday night. Comfortable walk from airport to the village of Sant' Eufemia centering around the railway station on the line connecting Naples and Reggio di Calabria.
On Sunday train journey along the coast via Gioio Tauro to Villa San Giovanni, main transit harbour to Sicily.

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Arriving in Messina at Sunday siesta time with hardly anybody around. Messina was destryed by an earthquake in 1906 and the rebuilt Campanile of the Cathedral displays an interesting astronomical clock.
After arriving in Catania I had a fairly hard time to find my sleeping place at Hostel Agora in the maze of little lanes. Catania: what a city!

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Train station Messina Marittima

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Journey plan tag:travellerspoint.com,2009-02-10:/blog/?domain=volcano&thisblog_entryid=1&entryid=149481 2009-02-11T20:17:55Z 2009-02-10T17:30:28Z [map=178800 lat=50.8333333333333 lon=16.6666666666667 zoom=5.4] Vantaa-Tampere-Cambridge-Lamezia-Catania-Messina-Salerno-Naples-Bari-Hahn-Tampere-Vantaa ...

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Vantaa-Tampere-Cambridge-Lamezia-Catania-Messina-Salerno-Naples-Bari-Hahn-Tampere-Vantaa

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